| Surfing is the only type of sport where the person | | | | over a long distance. That's what makes the swells |
| relies on the wave to pick them up and for them to | | | | travel until they hit the beaches in which we surf |
| do tricks. Unlike body boarding and kite surfing you | | | | today. Like when you were to have a hurricane the |
| have to stand up fast before the wave breaks on | | | | wind would be blowing hard and fast out at sea but |
| you so you can get down the line and do your tricks | | | | 50 to 100 miles inshore the waves would be pounding |
| on the wave. | | | | the shores. Hurricane surf is good because you are |
| Surfing first had started way back in Hawaii when | | | | like guaranteed good clean offshore surf sometime |
| Captain James cook was on the island. The boards | | | | or another when the hurricane gets close. Other |
| they used back then were made from heavy thick | | | | types of swells are ground swells which just pop up |
| wood so it made them hard to even paddle out. | | | | over night from a low pressure or something like |
| They were later made from other materials but not | | | | that. Other than that waves are made from wind. |
| till way later when the modern short board came into | | | | You will see the difference between a surfer who |
| play. After the short board came into the picture it | | | | can ride the wave and one who just can't catch the |
| changed surfing forever. Surfers could then use | | | | wave before it breaks. The one who can catch the |
| smaller boards but they would still float the same | | | | wave before it breaks on them and gets in front of |
| way as the others. Except now they could catch | | | | the barrel of the wave will be the one to show you |
| waves fast and do tricks that they had never done | | | | how to surf. Like me I would drop into the face at |
| before. The boards allowed them to get down the | | | | an angle so I would gain better speed so then when |
| line faster then ever so they could do new aerial | | | | I stood up I would already have a good amount of |
| tricks. The airs first started in California and places like | | | | speed then I would do a few little pumps down the |
| that then other surfers started to do the same tricks | | | | line then do a huge lip slide or off the lip. You are not |
| so they changed surfing like never before. If you | | | | limited to what you can do on a wave when its |
| were to look at surf videos today and look at surfing | | | | chest to head high surf and walling up down the |
| videos from back in the day like the 60s and 70s you | | | | beach. All you do is catch it then speed down the line |
| will see the difference. | | | | and perform some sick trick that gets everyone |
| Swells and waves are created from wind blowing | | | | hooting and then paddle back out. |